Non-Quest BBQ No 41 – Arby's
Madison, Alabama
During my occasional travels, I
try to sample BBQ at those near and far away places outside the Quest area. I
just really, really like that stuff ...
So, once in a while one or another of the national fast food chains
decides to spice up their menu with a BBQ-themed item. It should go without
saying that those ventures cannot be compared to our local BBQ – they are
worlds, no, strike that, they are universes apart. But as an alternative to the
regular menu items, it might just work.
Next in line is Arby’s, your friendly neighborhood slicer of luncheon
meats. They claim that the brisket they serve now on their new Smokehouse
Brisket Sandwich has been smoked for thirteen hours. Sounds good at first, but
what does that really mean? That their marketing department knows how to play
the numbers game? That they have a portable smoker attached to each store now?
That they read a book or two about BBQ? That they are really trying their best
to bring us authentic brisket?
Well, let’s give them a few breaks. First, it goes without saying that
smoking the brisket each day in every store appears to be very impractical. So
they smoke it elsewhere, pack it in cellophane, truck it around, and cut it
fresh at the stores. I have no reason to doubt their claim smoking it for
thirteen hours. But that in itself does not say anything about its tenderness
and flavor. It only tells you that their marketing department indeed read a
book or two about BBQ, especially the chapters about how much time it generally
takes to prepare the meat for consumption. Bravo. You get an A for reading
skills, now sit down and listen to the verdict about tenderness and flavor.
Since the brisket meat is not really sliced, but rather shaved, it comes
with a kind of default tenderness, for it is very tough to really chew hard on
paper thin meat. As for the flavor, I have to say that there was something that
resembled smoke aroma, but just for a brief moment. It was immediately
overwhelmed by the extreme saltiness of the meat. As I write this, about eight
hours after eating the sandwich, I still have heartburn. The sandwich comes
with fried and battered onion rings, liquid Gouda cheese, mayonnaise, and Arby’s own BBQ
sauce. Of the 610 calories that monster tries to stack directly on your hips, a
whopping 320 are from fat. 1230 mg of Sodium more than explain the salty taste,
I think. And there are more ingredients that read like an advertising brochure
for a cardiologist. So, from a nutritional standpoint, you better stay away
from this conglomerate of irresponsibility. But does it at least taste good, so
you could order it as your last meal on death row, if you ever came into this
conundrum?
Don’t bother, die hungry instead. There is no discernible influence the
smoked brisket has on the taste of the sandwich. The prevailing aroma is that
of cheese and BBq sauce. And salt. I need a Pepto. Now.
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